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The ruins of Ardvreck Castle stand on a small island at the east end of windy Loch Assynt. Clan Macleod betrayed James Graham, Marquis of Montrose here in 1650. He was taken south on horseback, legs tied under the animal's belly, and executed in Edinburgh because of his support for King Charles 11.

Assynt, the broken land, is safer today and it would take several lifetimes to properly appreciate all this area has to offer. It is a paradise for hill walkers and anglers, ornithologists, geologists, botanists and virtually any other 'ologist' you care to mention.

The highest peak is Ben More Assynt (3,273ft), towering over the summits of Canisp, Quinag, Cul Mor, Cul Beag and Stack Polly. On the gentle slopes of Canisp you will find a lone rowan tree growing strongly, protected by a small, circular stone wall. Hundreds of trout lochs lie scattered throughout these hills and mountains.

Behind the Inchnadamph Hotel is Traligill Burn, the giant's ravine, leading to underground passages that extend for 500 yards. Limestone outcrops host rare alpine plants such as sawwort, hakweed, globeflower, holly fern, serrated wintergreen, purple and mountain saxifrage.

By Loch Awe, a track climbs to the bone caves of Allt na Uamh. Excavations here revealed evidence of human habitation dating back to early post-glacial times, including the remains of bear, lynx, lemming and reindeer. Pause in the caves. Listen to the echoes of time passing.