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The ridge of Foinaven (2990ft) is 'king' here. Climb to its summit, Gunu Mor, to view an ancient landscape: the Orkney Islands and Caithness to the east; west across the stormy waters of the Minch to the long islands of the Outer Hebrides. A tumbled panorama of mountains and peaks flow south into the mists of time.

During World War 11, Loch Eriboll, the deepest sea inlet along the north coast, provided shelter for British warships. HMS Hood sailed from here to meet her fate during the hunt for the German battleship, 'Bismark'. Hood is commemorated to this day above the loch where her name is marked out in white-painted stones high on Meall Meadhonach.

Follow the A838 road south from Durness to Rhiconich and turn right to visit Kinlochbervie ('KLB' to locals), a busy fishing port on the north shore of Loch Inchard. King Hakkon of Norway, commanding a fleet of 80 Viking longships, rested here in 1263 on his way south to defeat at the Battle of Largs by the 23 year-old Alexander 111 of Scotland.

Continue west now, past the white-sand, deserted beaches at Oldshoremore to Blairmore. A track leads north here, four miles over the moor to the paradise that is Sandwood Bay. Am Buachaille, the shepherd, a tall stack guarding the bay, nods white crested Atlantic waves onto the golden shore. Linger and wonder.

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